Winter prep for beehives

Insulated hives and wraps, mouse guards, candy boards, winter feeding, hanging scales and late-season mite control to bring colonies through to spring.

Wooden beehive on a stand beside a fence after a fresh snowfall
Photo: blumenbiene, CC BY 2.0, via Flickr

How to winterize a beehive

To winterize a beehive, you need a colony with low mites, enough stored food, a dry interior and an entrance mice cannot use. Gear helps with each: mite testers and EPA-registered treatments in late summer, feeders and candy boards for food, wraps or insulated hives for warmth and less condensation, and mouse guards for the entrance. This page groups everything tagged for winter.

Frames & foundation

All 1 in frames & foundation

Bee health & feeding

All 12 in bee health & feeding

Fall checklist

  1. Count mites in late summer

    HBHC's 9th edition advises sampling just before the colony clusters and treating promptly at 2 or more mites per 100 bees in the population-decrease phase. Use the mite threshold calculator, then an EPA-registered product per its label.

  2. Check stores

    Lift the back of the hive or weigh it with a hanging scale (QWORK 110 lb, Fuzion 440 lb). Ask your local club or extension office what weight colonies need in your region.

  3. Feed if light

    Heavy syrup in early fall while bees can still store it; a candy board (BeeTech 10-frame) or fondant once it is cold. See beehive feeders.

  4. Fit mouse guards

    Stainless or galvanized guards (BeeCastle, KEILEOHO, TIHOOD) go on before the first hard frost.

  5. Insulate and vent

    Wraps (POLLIBEE, Windspeed, Trademark Innovations) or insulated boxes (Apimaye, Lyson) reduce heat loss; an upper vent or quilt lets moisture escape.

For broodless-period mite control, see oxalic acid vaporization vs dribble.

Wraps or an insulated hive?

Winter gear in our catalogue

OptionListed specFit
POLLIBEE wrap600D Oxford, 3 mm pearl cotton, 2 foil layers8 and 10 frame, 2 deeps + 1 medium
Windspeed wrap600D Oxford, 3 mm pearl cotton, aluminum film8-frame
LRDCIMO wrapInsulated, straps and bucklesHoover Hives 10-frame deep
Apimaye ErgoInsulated plastic boxes10-frame (own system)
Lyson kitInsulated polystyrene, 1 deep (9.5 in)10-frame

Source: Hive & Frame catalogue (maker listings); insulation values are maker claims

A wrap is a seasonal add-on to wooden hives you already own; an insulated hive is a year-round choice that also helps in hot summers. Read the best insulated beehives list and the Apimaye insulated hive review.

Mistakes to avoid

  • Treating for mites too late. Winter bees are raised in fall; mites damage them before you see a problem.
  • Sealing the hive airtight. Condensation dripping on the cluster can do more harm than cold.
  • Opening the hive on cold days. Quick heft checks from outside are enough.
  • Feeding thin syrup in cold weather; bees cannot dry it down.

Region matters: see how to winterize a beehive, the seasonal calendar and the categories for bee health and insulated hives. UF IFAS ENY-161 covers overwintering in northern climates.

Winter prep: questions

When should you winterize a beehive?
Start in late summer with mite counts and treatment, then feed in early fall and fit mouse guards and wraps before the first hard frost. Timing depends on your region.
Do beehives need to be wrapped for winter?
Not everywhere. In cold northern areas wraps or insulated hives reduce heat loss; in mild southern areas they are often unnecessary.
How heavy should a hive be for winter?
It depends on climate and hive size; colonies in long northern winters need far more stores than those in the South. Ask your local club or extension office for a target and weigh with a hanging scale.
What is a candy board?
A shallow frame on top of the hive filled with hardened sugar, giving emergency food the cluster can reach without breaking apart.
Should you treat for mites before winter?
If your count is at or above the HBHC threshold, yes, with an EPA-registered product used per its label, early enough to protect the winter bees.
Do you need a mouse guard?
In most of the US, yes. Mice move into hives in fall and chew comb; a metal guard keeps them out while bees pass.