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How to start beekeeping: a first-year timeline

From the first club meeting to the first winter: what to do, in what order, and what you can safely leave for year two.

Updated November 2026 · 9 min read

Beginner beekeepers in veils watching an instructor open a hive in a fenced backyard
Photo: uacescomm, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Flickr
The short version
  • Learning how to start beekeeping is mostly a matter of timing: order bees in early winter, set up hives in late winter, install bees in spring.
  • Check your state’s apiary registration rules and any local or HOA limits before you buy anything.
  • Start with two colonies in the same hive style, so you can compare them and borrow frames between them.
  • Core gear is a complete hive, a feeder, a smoker, a hive tool, a veil or suit, gloves and a mite test kit.
  • Plan on little or no honey in year one. The real first-year goal is a colony with low mites and full stores going into winter.

If you want to know how to start beekeeping, start with the calendar, not the catalog. Bees are a seasonal purchase: packages and nucs are sold in late winter for spring pickup, and the best regional suppliers often sell out by February. Everything else (hive, gear, a place for the hive, a local mentor) needs to be ready before the bees are.

This guide lays out a first-year plan for a US backyard beekeeper, with the decisions in the order you will meet them. It draws on Penn State Extension, Utah State University Extension, the Honey Bee Health Coalition (HBHC) and the regional extension calendars behind our seasonal calendar. It does not describe our own colonies, because we don’t keep test colonies. The gear picks are compared by maker specs and listing details.

Is beekeeping right for you?

Before spending anything, be honest about three things: time, stings and neighbors. A new colony needs a look every week or two from spring through early fall, and you can only open the hive on warm, calm days. Mite checks run monthly through the season. Missing a few weeks in May can mean a swarm. Missing August mite control can mean a dead colony by March.

You will get stung occasionally, even in a good suit. Most stings are a short, sharp annoyance, but if anyone in your household has had a severe reaction to an insect sting, talk to a doctor or allergist before you set up a hive. Seek emergency care for signs of anaphylaxis.

Finally, check the rules. Many states require apiary registration. Pennsylvania, Delaware and New York run registration programs, for example, while Michigan does not require it. Cities, counties and HOAs can add setback, hive-count or water-source rules. The Apiary Inspectors of America keeps a directory of state apiarists. That office is also who you call if you ever suspect American foulbrood.

Find a club before you find a hiveA local beekeeping association is the single most useful resource in year one. Members know local flows, local suppliers, which months are risky, and often run beginner classes and mentoring. Many state and county associations also keep swarm-call lists and lend extractors.

How to start beekeeping, step by step

Here is the order that extension programs and experienced clubs tend to recommend. The months assume a temperate US region; the South and Southwest run several weeks earlier, and the North and the mountains run later. Use the seasonal checklist to see the timing for your region.

Group of people in bee suits and veils at a hands-on beekeeping class
A hands-on beekeeping class. A season with a club or mentor shortens the learning curve.Photo: uacescomm, CC BY-SA 2.0, via Flickr
  1. Fall and early winter: learn and join

    Take a beginner class, read one solid book cover to cover and join your local association. Decide on a hive style now, because every box and frame you buy later has to match it.

    Storey's Guide to Keeping Honey Bees, 2nd Ed.The Beekeeper's Handbook (Sammataro & Avitabile)The Backyard Beekeeper, 5th Edition
  2. Early winter: order your bees

    Order packages or nucs from a regional supplier or a local beekeeper. Penn State Extension advises ordering packages by early winter. Bees are not sold through the gear links on this site. Our packages vs nucs vs swarms guide helps you choose.

  3. Winter: buy and build the hive

    Assemble and paint woodenware indoors (or buy pre-assembled boxes). Get two complete hives if you can. Have frames with foundation for every slot, plus a feeder.

    Hoover Hives 10-Frame Langstroth, Assembled, 2D+1MMann Lake HK170 Traditional Complete Hive Kit, PaintedBeeCastle 10-Frame Waxed Langstroth Hive, 2D+1MLittle Giant 10-Frame Beginner Hive Kit
  4. Late winter: pick and prepare the site

    Choose a level spot with morning sun, some afternoon shade in hot regions, a wind break and a water source nearby. Put the hive on a stand to keep it off damp ground and away from skunks. Point the entrance away from paths and property lines.

    HiveSweet Adjustable Metal Beehive Standwitbee 10-Frame Plastic Hive Stand with Frame Rest
  5. Spring: install the bees

    Install the package or nuc the day it arrives, feed 1:1 syrup and leave the colony alone for a few days, apart from checking that the queen has been released. Our package installation guide walks through it.

    AOIT Rapid Round Hive Top Feeder, 1/2 Gal, 2 PackBeeCastle 3.5 L Deep Frame Feeders, 2 Pack
  6. Spring to summer: inspect and add room

    Inspect every 7–14 days. Look for eggs, a solid brood pattern, stores and space. Add the second brood box when the first is about 70–80% full of bees, then a honey super. See how to inspect a beehive.

    VIVO BEE-V001 Stainless Bee Smoker, 11"Foxhound Bee Co 304 Stainless Hive Tool, 2 PackMann Lake HD630 Standard Frame Grip
  7. Summer to fall: count mites and control them

    Do an alcohol wash monthly from spring on and compare the result with the HBHC 9th-edition threshold for that season. Late summer counts matter most, because that is when the colony raises its winter bees.

    Foxhound Varroa Easy Check Mite TesterVarroCheck Leak-Proof Varroa Mite Tester
  8. Fall: build stores and winterize

    Weigh or heft each hive, feed 2:1 syrup if light, fit mouse guards and entrance reducers, and manage moisture. Then leave them alone. Our winterizing guide has regional store targets.

Which hive should a beginner choose?

Most US beginners start with a Langstroth hive: stacked boxes of removable frames. It is the format most clubs, mentors, suppliers and extractors are built around, and nucs are sold on Langstroth deep frames. The 10-frame box is the US standard. The 8-frame version is lighter to lift, which matters when a full deep can weigh more than many people want to carry. Top bar hives avoid lifting boxes, but you harvest by crush and strain, and standard nucs don’t fit.

Beekeeper in a hat and veil lifting a frame from a hive box
Pulling frames from a Langstroth box. Standard boxes and frames are easy to find and swap.Photo: Lubman04, CC BY-SA 3.0, via Wikimedia Commons

Common beginner hive styles

Langstroth 10-frameLangstroth 8-frameTop bar
Starting setup per colony (our shopping list)2 deeps + 2 medium supers2 deeps + 3 medium supers1 long body
Takes standard nucs✓ yes✓ yes (5-frame nucs)✗ not without cutting comb
Works with an extractor✓ yes✓ yes✗ crush and strain
Lifting~ heaviest boxes✓ lighter boxes✓ no box lifting
Parts from other brands fit✓ mostly, check dimensions~ fewer options✗ maker-specific bars

Source: Hive & Frame startup shopping list assumptions

Whatever you pick, don’t mix 8-frame and 10-frame boxes in the same stack; the footprints differ. Pick one format for both colonies so frames are interchangeable. Browse beginner hives and kits by format.

Compare options in the best beehives for beginners, Langstroth vs top bar and Flow Hive vs Langstroth.

What gear do you need in year one?

Year-one gear falls into three groups. You need the first two before the bees arrive. The third can wait until you have honey to harvest.

  • The hive: bottom board (screened or solid), brood boxes, supers, frames with foundation, inner cover, outer cover, entrance reducer and a feeder.
  • Working gear: a smoker and fuel, a hive tool, a veil with a jacket or suit, gloves, and a mite test jar. A frame grip and a bee brush are handy extras.
  • Harvest gear (later): an extractor or a crush-and-strain setup, a strainer and a bucket with a honey gate. Many clubs lend or rent extractors.

On protective gear, fit matters more than features. A suit that is too small pulls tight at the knees and shoulders, and bees sting through fabric that is stretched against skin. Sizing differs by brand, so check each maker’s size chart against your height and chest, not just your usual size.

First-hive shopping list builderGet an itemized list for your number of hives, hive style and bee source, with quantities.

Want it in one box? See the best beekeeping starter kits.

What does a first-year beekeeping timeline look like?

The table below condenses the first year into seasons. Your regional calendar will shift these by a month or more, so treat it as an outline.

First-year outline (temperate US)

SeasonMain jobWhat to check
Fall–early winterLearn, join a club, order beesState registration, local rules, supplier pickup dates
Late winterBuild and place hivesEvery slot has a frame; feeder ready; site level
SpringInstall bees, feed, first inspectionsQueen released, eggs within about a week
Late springAdd room, watch for swarmingBox 70–80% full of bees before adding the next
SummerMite counts, maybe a small harvestHBHC threshold for peak population: 2 mites per 100 bees
Late summer–fallMite control, build storesWinter-store target for your region; re-test after treatment
WinterLeave them alone, heft monthlyHive weight, blocked entrances, mice

Source: Penn State Extension; HBHC 9th ed.; Hive & Frame seasonal calendar

10,000worker bees in a standard 3 lb package, roughlyPenn State Extension
300bees (½ cup) in one mite sampleHBHC 9th ed.
48.0 lbUS average honey yield per colony, 2025 cropUSDA NASS, March 2026

That national average comes mostly from established commercial colonies. A first-year colony starting from a package spends most of the season drawing comb and building up, so plan for little or no honey in year one.

November

Cold winters, one main summer flowTuck colonies in and stop opening hives

  • Finish winter prep and avoid opening hives once bees cluster below about 50°F. How-to
  • Set up a windbreak and make sure hives sit up off the ground. Gear
  • Render cappings and old comb into clean wax. How-to
  • Review your records and note which colonies to split, requeen or replace next year. Open tool

General guidance adapted from extension calendars. Timing varies with local forage, elevation and each year's weather; follow your local association and state apiarist. Full calendar and sources.

Common first-year mistakes to avoid

  • Ordering bees too late. Regional suppliers often sell out by late winter. Order in early winter.
  • Starting with one colony. With two, you can compare them and move a frame of eggs to one that loses its queen.
  • Skipping mite counts. Varroa is the main reason colonies die over winter. Count monthly; don’t guess.
  • Treating with anything off the label. Use only EPA-registered varroa products, exactly as the label says. Wood-bleach oxalic acid is not a registered treatment.
  • Opening the hive too often, or in the cold. Most calendars say not to pull frames below about 50°F.
  • Harvesting too much. The bees’ winter stores come first, especially in year one.
  • Moving frames when something looks wrong. If brood looks sunken, greasy or smells foul, stop and call your state apiarist before moving any equipment.

Who should start with what?

  • Most beginners: two 10-frame Langstroth hives, nucs or packages from a local supplier, a ventilated suit or jacket, and a club mentor.
  • If lifting is a concern: 8-frame Langstroth boxes, or medium boxes throughout, so no box gets too heavy. Browse backyard and urban setups.
  • If you want minimal equipment and no extractor: a top bar hive, accepting crush-and-strain harvests and fewer local mentors who use one.
  • Families with kids: start with a hive that has an observation window and properly sized kids’ suits. See kids and family.
  • Cold-winter regions: plan for insulation and a bigger winter-store target from day one. See winter prep.
Verdict

The best way to start beekeeping is slowly and in the right order: rules and a club in the fall, bees ordered by early winter, two matching hives ready by late winter, then spring installation. Spend your first year on the basics (regular inspections, monthly mite counts against the HBHC thresholds, and full stores before winter) rather than on honey.

Varroa mite threshold calculatorTurn an alcohol wash or sugar roll count into mites per 100 bees and check it against the Honey Bee Health…First-hive shopping list builderChoose how many hives, packages or nucs and the hive style, and get an itemized beekeeping starter list with…Seasonal beekeeping checklist by regionA month-by-month beekeeping to-do list for six US regions, from extension calendars. Tick tasks off as you…

Questions

How to start beekeeping with no experience?
Join a local beekeeping association, take a beginner class, check your state’s registration rules, order bees by early winter and set up two matching hives before spring. Then follow a regional month-by-month plan like our seasonal calendar.
How many hives should a beginner start with?
Two is the common recommendation. Two colonies let you compare brood and temperament, borrow a frame of eggs if one loses its queen, and still have bees if one fails.
Do I need a permit to keep bees?
It depends on the state and town. Many states require apiary registration, and cities or HOAs may limit hive numbers or require setbacks. Check with your state apiarist or department of agriculture and your local government.
How long until I get honey?
Usually not in the first year from a package. A nuc in an area with a strong flow may give a small surplus. Most beekeepers plan their first real harvest for year two.
When is the best time to start beekeeping?
Begin learning in fall, order bees in early winter and install them in spring, from about March in the Deep South to April or May in the North and mountains.
Where do I buy bees?
From regional package producers, local nuc builders and beekeepers in your association. Bees are not sold through the gear links on this site.

Sources

  1. Penn State Extension: Installing packaged bees
  2. Penn State / MAAREC: Beekeeping Basics (AGRS-93)
  3. Utah State University Extension: Setting up and placing a hive
  4. Honey Bee Health Coalition: Tools for Varroa Management, 9th edition (June 11, 2026)
  5. Apiary Inspectors of America: state apiarist directory
  6. USDA NASS: Honey (released March 13, 2026), 2025 crop